I also mounted a double termination terminal (use TWO terminals, one for + and one for -) to accept all the negative and positive wires. I like to bring all leads to one central point to help eliminate and avoid any voltage drop using these thin gauges (although probably not needed). Make a mark showing which is (+) and (-). Note: Run an additional wire from the negative post to the leg of the terminal to ground the tower. Wire and solder these components observing the color scheme from the DB-9 schematic and the their correct polarities. This schematic will also help. Make sure to use heat shrink to prevent any shorting of wires. Careful when applying heat near the Cat5 wire. Protect other wires using a putty knife, spoon or metal blade.
For the overhead LEDs (#com-00531), I found the best method for mounting them to the all-thread tubing is to use a (#00) cork. It allows for a cleaver way to mount or remove the LED to the tubing and also blocks any light from escaping. You will have to drill two small holes through the cork for the LEDs legs. The cork also works as an insulator. If in doubt, insulate one leg with heat shrink. Insert the LED and bend the legs at 90 degrees to secure the LED. Insert the cork and LED into the tubing. Again, observe the polarities. A 100-ohm resister will have to be put on each of the overhead LEDs on the positive side (anode).
Finish wiring up and soldering the remaining components using heat shrink.Note: a (#0) cork for the Sensors works best because it doesn't allow the sensor to go too deep into the tube thus protruding above the surface. A (#00) for the Tower works best because it does allow the LED to set further down into the tube.