Route the DB9-1 cable from the Interface box (top) through the bottom of the tower leg, coming out the top cross piece. Make sure to run enough wire to reach your components. Using a scalpel or razor blade, carefully remove enough insulation for the towers width (careful not to slice any wires). You might apply some electrical tape or use a rubber grommet where the cable comes out the top and bends at a 90 degrees for extra protection (don't risk using heat shrink). I also used a cable clamp to help secure it. You will be using all eight wires. If you haven't already, mount the four Lane Indicators, the four overhead LED's and the two Status LEDs. Keep the Green LED on the left side when facing the tower (near lane 1). You might have to apply 3 volts using two batteries to determine the LED color. Notice and track which leads are the Cathode (-) and the Anode (+). The longer lead is the Anode.

I also mounted a double termination terminal (use TWO terminals, one for + and one for -) to accept all the negative and positive wires. I like to bring all leads to one central point to help eliminate and avoid any voltage drop using these thin gauges (although probably not needed). Make a mark showing which is (+) and (-). Note: Run an additional wire from the negative post to the leg of the terminal to ground the tower. Wire and solder these components observing the color scheme from the DB-9 schematic and the their correct polarities. This schematic will also help. Make sure to use heat shrink to prevent any shorting of wires. Careful when applying heat near the Cat5 wire. Protect other wires using a putty knife, spoon or metal blade.

For the overhead LEDs (#com-00531), I found the best method for mounting them to the all-thread tubing is to use a (#00) cork. It allows for a cleaver way to mount or remove the LED to the tubing and also blocks any light from escaping. You will have to drill two small holes through the cork for the LEDs legs. The cork also works as an insulator. If in doubt, insulate one leg with heat shrink. Insert the LED and bend the legs at 90 degrees to secure the LED. Insert the cork and LED into the tubing. Again, observe the polarities. A 100-ohm resister will have to be put on each of the overhead LEDs on the positive side (anode).

Finish wiring up and soldering the remaining components using heat shrink.

Note: a (#0) cork for the Sensors works best because it doesn't allow the sensor to go too deep into the tube thus protruding above the surface. A (#00) for the Tower works best because it does allow the LED to set further down into the tube.